Range Calculator
Estimate how far your board or scooter can travel on a charge from its battery, your weight, and the terrain you ride.
Estimated range
Energy is voltage × capacity. Real consumption climbs with rider weight and terrain, so this scales a base Wh/km figure by both. Manufacturers quote best-case range on a light rider, a full charge, and flat ground — expect real range to fall short of the label.
Turning battery specs into distance
Every personal electric vehicle carries a fixed amount of energy: voltage multiplied by amp-hours gives watt-hours, the size of the “fuel tank.” What varies is how fast you empty it. Consumption in watt-hours per kilometre rises with anything that asks more of the motor — a heavier rider, a climb, a headwind, higher speed, or aggressive acceleration.
That's why a single quoted range number rarely matches what you see. By separating the stored energy from a consumption figure you can adjust, this calculator gives you a range you can actually plan around, then leaves room to build in a reserve rather than riding to empty.
Frequently Asked Questions
How is range calculated from battery specs?
Multiply pack voltage by capacity in amp-hours to get watt-hours (Wh) of stored energy — a 36V, 7.8Ah pack holds about 281Wh. Divide that by your real-world consumption in watt-hours per kilometre and you get an approximate range. This tool starts from a base Wh/km figure you set and then scales it up for rider weight and terrain.
Why is my real range shorter than the manufacturer's claim?
Range figures on the box are usually best-case: a light rider, a brand-new fully charged pack, flat smooth ground, moderate speed, and mild weather. Add a heavier rider, hills, cold temperatures, stop-start riding, higher speed, or an aging battery and consumption climbs — so it's normal to see meaningfully less than the quoted number.
What consumption figure should I enter?
As a rough starting point, small hoverboards and commuter scooters use somewhere around 10–15 Wh/km, while faster or heavier electric unicycles can use more, especially at speed. If your device has a battery percentage readout, the most accurate way is to note the percentage used over a known distance and work backwards to your own Wh/km.
Does rider weight really change range that much?
It matters, but it isn't the whole story. Roughly, a portion of the energy draw is fixed — electronics, air resistance at a given speed — and a portion scales with the total mass being moved and lifted up hills. This tool models about 40% of consumption as weight-linked, so a heavier rider sees a real but not dramatic reduction on flat ground, and a larger one on climbs.
Should I run the battery all the way down to get the full range?
It's better not to, as a habit. Regularly draining a lithium pack to empty and leaving it there accelerates wear. Many riders treat the usable range as the comfortable middle of the pack and keep some reserve, both to protect the battery and to avoid the sharp drop in power that some devices show near empty.
Estimates only — real range and speed vary with battery age, temperature, speed, and terrain. Ride safely, wear a helmet, and follow your local law.